South Indian Arts & Crafts – Kalamkari.

Origin: Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam, Andhra Pradesh – circa: uncertain.
While Kalamkari is certainly the most ancient form of hand painting, using natural dyes on resists-dyed cloth, its antiquity is however uncertain. It is believed that the earliest fragments were found in Mohenjodaro, setting the period of origin back to the pre-Christian era. Evidence of import was also found in the excavations in Al-Fustat - the capital of ancient Egypt.

Srikalahasti kalamkari - Image source: Dolls of IndiaSrikalahasti kalamkari - Image source: Dolls of India

Literally meaning ‘Pen Craft’, the etymology of ‘Kalamkari’ can be traced to the 16th century - the period of alliance between Safavid Persian and Qutub Shahi Golconda. The Persian word ‘Kalam’ or ‘qalam’ alludes to a pen or an instrument used for painting whereas the Urdu word ‘Kari’ implies the craftsmanship involved.

Styles of Kalamkari:


Of the two distinct gharanas of Kalamkari, the Masulipatnam or Machilipatnam style has the intricate and delicate Muslim and Persian influence and has evolved to using block printing. The primary motifs are floral butas, mihrab of the mosques, the famed tree of life (cypress) and animals mentioned in the Quran and in Sufi writings. Under the Dutch and the British reigns, the art flourished and evolved to cater to their taste and Machilipatnam, being a port town, played a major role in its trade and export.

Machilipatnam kalamkari - Tree of Life – courtesy Monica Saurab

But to this day, the Srikalahasti style remains close to the original art form. The artists rely strictly on free-hand painting and the use of natural dyes. Being a temple town, this style has a religious flavour, depicting Hindu Deities and feature narratives from the epics and mythological classics.

A third traditional style is Karupur Kalamkari, which originated in Thanjavoor (Tamil Nadu) during the Maratha rule. This style is distinctly embellished with gold brocade and was mostly worn as sarees and dhotis by the royal families, during the period of Raja Serfoji and later Raja Shivaji.

Contributor Suresh Yesuthasen
(Team The Indian Me)